In his book NZ Frenzy, Scott Cook starts off his discussion of Paturau (Pah-too-rau) Beach with these words: “Oh my god, no way, oh wow, I’ll be damned.” He says it took him seven summers of travelling to New Zealand’s South Island before he made it to Paturau. We’re almost as tardy—it’s taken us four […]
“Indisputably the best walk on the South Island,” says Scott Cook about Hooker Valley Track in his guidebook NZ Frenzy. There’s even higher praise—many references cite New Zealand’s Hooker Valley as the best day track in the entire country. After hiking it in late April, NZ’s autumn, Magellan and I gave it five stars. But […]
“Did you like Milford Sound?” That’s the first question you’ll be asked when you tell people you were on the South Island of New Zealand for three weeks. When Magellan and I answer meekly, “We didn’t go there,” we’re met with the same dumbfounded expression you’d give to people visiting the Rockies and admitting they […]
In the language of New Zealand’s indigenous Māori, the word Moeraki means “drowsy day.” We were ready for a drowsy day, for Moeraki. The previous day we woke up before the sun in Auckland, drove slowly to the airport (because a tire on our rental car had blown out on the freeway and we were […]
Wednesday night, April 15 I’m still in a bit of a shock over what happened today. Maybe as I age (remember, I’m only a year old) and get used to life in the wilderness (after all, I was born in Germany), I’ll roll with it more easily.