Tag results for: Seville

Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede

“We’re trying for the experience we had in Seville with you guys,” said Pat this week describing a trip he and Dallas are planning to Budapest and Vienna. “That apartment we rented was so great.”

Readers of this blog may recall that we’ve talked about our trip to Seville with Pat and Dallas before: the bar Casa Anselmo at midnight, the masterful art of Velasquez and the Spanish gallantry we experienced at our anniversary dinner. But we haven’t told you about the apartment we rented.

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Hospital de los Venerables, (home for elderly priests). Not a name that entices you to visit the place is it?

Its description in a guidebook hints that there’s more “A little gem of a museum/church/gallery.” And mentions that “To the left is a small room housing paintings from Sevillano painters, including Velázquez.”

Including Velázquez! I’d rewrite that phrase given The Metropolitan Museum says he’s “the most admired—perhaps the greatest—European painter who ever lived.”

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It was 11:40 and the line was already snaking around the corner. This was lucky for the four of us: there’s no sign above the door and we may not have otherwise found Casa Anselma, where locals and others crowd for La Rumbla Flamenca in Sevilla.

Round midnight the doors opened. Magellan joined the lineup for the bar while Pat, who is six-feet tall, forged ahead to the large group gathered at the small entrance to the seated area. Pat motioned to Dallas and I to join him. Elbow-to-elbow, people were seated in front of little tables facing the tiny stage. We could see Magellan waving and gesturing “what do you want to drink” so Pat went over to convey our orders. Dallas and I waited in line. At the front of the line, her arms crossed surveying the bunch of us, was a wiry little Señora about our age dressed in slacks and a loose top. (We called her Anselma but later found out she was not.) Despite her diminutive frame, she was in charge, the no-nonsense gatekeeper with absolute authority.

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Robles in Sevilla

Seductive. Romantic. Alluring.

That’s how Sevilla is described in every guidebook. And it’s true. For a week, this fascinating city kept Magellan and I and our friends Pat and Dallas under her charismatic spell.

The Alcázar. The Cathedral. A flamenco concert. Triana’s market, ceramics and nightlife. The Antiqvarivm de Sevilla. We expected to love all that. And we did. But when I asked Pat and Dallas, “What’s the best story from Sevilla?” their response was instantaneous and unanimous: “Your anniversary night.”

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