It’s a banner year for the Grand Canyon—a national park since 1919 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site for 40 years. This iconic park attracts six million visitors annually, most of them “cone-lickers” according to Brian, our guide when Magellan and I hiked there. Brian estimates 98% of visitors buy an ice-cream cone, peer over the edge and climb back into their air-conditioned SUVs. Not us. We hiked to the bottom, to Havasu Falls, ten miles in the canyon’s deep.
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