Jubilados (Spanish for retirees) savouring the journey

Chosen carefully, planned well and travelled independently

Stories of global travel adventures from Gloria and Kerry, a.k.a. Spice and Magellan


Sicily and modern art: seems like an oxymoron doesn’t it? Magellan and I were ambivalent about going to Favara. Mostly because we had found so little about an art complex begun in 2010 that we wanted to see, Farm Cultural Park. Paradoxical name isn’t it? Also, getting there required a triangular diversion that would add considerable driving time on head-shaker backroads. In going, we discovered a pastoral road, a town centre transformed into a Sicilian casbah—and a backstory of how cultural agitators create social change.

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“Nature first, architecture second.” The words of a Canadian, (Gander, Newfoundland—a resident of Bergen, Norway since 1996)—a world-renowned architect for his design of Fogo Island Inn. The words spoken by Todd Saunders when he and fellow architect Tommie Wilhelmsen began conceptualizing Stegastein Viewpoint on Norway’s infamous “Snow Road.”

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Where else but Norway have roads become cultural destinations?

What other country would embark on a thirty-year plan to build scenic roads to amplify natural wonders in remote areas? Hold nationwide competitions for the engineering of these new roads, for the architecture of accompanying pavilions, observation decks and restaurants (even “extremely fancy toilets”) and for the installations of noteworthy artists?

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Dangerousroads.com says,

The Mokee (or Moki) Dugway, located on Utah Route 261 just north of Mexican Hat, Utah is a staggering, graded dirt switchback road carved into the face of the cliff edge of Cedar Mesa. It consists of 3 miles of steep, unpaved, but well graded switchbacks (11% grade), which wind 1,200 feet from Cedar Mesa to the valley floor near Valley of the Gods.

The site fails to mention that the road is 6,425 feet above sea level. Mainly one lane with cliff-edge pullouts sans guardrails. That a sign on UT-261 reads, “NOT Recommended for Trucks over 10,000 lbs., RVs, Buses, Vehicles Towing.” That it’s in a deserted area. Knowing all this, Magellan could hardly wait to drive it.

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Åmotan Svøufallet

How we got lucky and chose Åmotan (“where the waters meet”) from among the phenomenal natural attractions in Norway outlined in our four guidebooks and countless online searches I’m not sure.

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