Have you heard about the Costa da Morte on the Galician coast of northwestern Spain? Until a few months ago when planning a hiking trip to Spain’s Picos de Europa combined with our first visit to Portugal we hadn’t. Looking like a jagged heart atop Portugal, the Costa da Morte seemed like a good waypoint. […]
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When we read about the Sealy Tarns Trek in Scott Cook’s NZ Frenzy hiking guide, I thought, “No way. This seems too much like the Grouse Grind in North Vancouver.”
Wild camping—that’s the Omani term for what we call primitive camping, Americans call dispersed camping and New Zealanders call freedom camping. We’d been wild camping in Oman in a Land Cruiser with a Hannibal rooftop tent in the Hajar Mountains, at Jabal Shams and in the Cinnamon Desert. Now we were heading south toward the […]
Someone asked me what I thought about while driving during our 79-day road trip this spring. Not much. But travelling through Wyoming, I was reminded of a short story that upon rereading when we returned home, wouldn’t let go of me until I forced it into this poem. Rock Springs Driving north from Flaming Gorge […]
Something unexpected happened on my birthday a few years ago. I met an ermitaño. In Spain. “A what?” you’re probably asking.
El Bulli. Perhaps the world’s most famous restaurant. When Ferran Adrià closed its doors in 2011, El Bulli had been named the #1 restaurant in the world five times—a record. Ferran’s radically creative molecular gastronomy influences chefs as much as his fellow Spaniard Rafa’s topspin reverse forehand impresses tennis players. But what happens to the […]
Sinking my teeth into a cob of plump, sweet corn the day it’s picked is what makes this time of the year a treat. You might remember me saying something like this last year in our blog Yellow, which featured a recipe for Taos Corn Chowder. For this year’s recipe, we’re going south of Taos, New […]
Since the turn of the century, some architects and engineers have been incorporating more and more sustainable and environmentally sensitive practices into their residential designs. Practices such as passive natural lighting, solar shading, natural ventilation, non load-bearing interior walls, steel framing and pre-fabricated modules. These concepts were responses to environmental concerns that had evolved over […]
“De gazpacho no hay empacho.” Translation: “You can never get too much of a good thing, like gazpacho.” We agree. With tomatoes voluptuously plumping in the sun on vines across the country, enticing us with their earthy perfume, it’s time for gazpacho.
“That’s good because I didn’t want to sleep in a yurt on the beach,” Ward said when I told him we’d booked rooms for he and Lynn and Magellan and I at Benesse House in Japan. Like Claudia and Jamie in the children’s book The Mixed-Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler, we were going […]
This week after reading “Upscale Food and Gear is Bringing Campsite Cooking Out of the Wild” in The Globe and Mail, Magellan said, “We did that—and more.” I don’t know Canada’s stats but the article, originally published in The New York Times, says interest in camp cooking in the US is heating up. A million […]
100 blogposts! “I thought we’d work at it for a year,” Magellan confessed when I asked him how long he initially expected we’d be at it, back when he announced his idea for Latitude65 to me over dinner in November 2014. Hmmm.
On every holiday we’ve taken, there comes a time, usually midway through the trip, when I think to myself, “I wish I was at home.” Maybe I’m missing the comfort of lying on our couch with a book instead of on a hotel bed planning the next day’s excursions. Or longing for a plate […]
Imagine a hilltop town, blindingly white cubist architecture, a labyrinth of narrow streets under skies blue as lapis lazuli. Did you think you were in Greece? That’s how we felt when we arrived one Sunday afternoon at Vejer de la Frontera, a pueblo blanco in Andalusia.
A traveller’s nightmare. 1990. Bari, Italy. A guy with a knife slits the strap on my “man-purse.” Jumps onto the back of a motorbike. Disappears into a maze of alleys. I’ve just lost my passport, driver’s license, credit cards, money and airline tickets. If it had happened today, I’d also have lost my iPhone.
It was July 1, 1967, Canada’s 100th birthday. The Terrace Gardens at Waskesiu in Prince Albert National Park. “Look at the cute guy in the siwash sweater,” said my friend Chon. “Hey, he’s coming over here. And I bet he’s going to ask you to dance,” she said. Given “he” was Magellan, you can see […]
Remember when we were younger travellers and spent hours looking for souvenirs for ourselves and our friends and family? If you’re like us, you’ve stopped buying stuff that recipients neither need nor want. (Okay, there are Kit Kats for Brandy, wine for Ward, a rubber chicken for Gail…) And at this decluttering stage of our […]
Backpacking, car camping, RVing or motelling? Why did we choose a rooftop tent as our base to explore North America?
When we’re travelling and people hear where we’re from, we get one or the other of these responses: “Vancouver. I love that city. So beautiful. Such great seafood.” Or: “Vancouver. I’d love to go there. I hear it’s so beautiful. And that it has such great seafood.” One of our favourite local seafoods is spot […]
“Are you taking a gun?” You’d be surprised how often this question was asked when we announced our plans to spend three months touring the southwestern United States, primarily primitive camping in a rooftop tent on our 2008 Land Rover. Only once did I wish, sort of, that I had one. Instead, this blog, the […]
The other day I was seeding a pomegranate, such a sensual fruit with its ruby-red arils clustered together. It got me thinking about Granada, the Spanish city whose name comes from a combination of Arabic words meaning word pomegranate and hill of strangers. The main reason tourists go to Granada is to see the Alhambra, […]
“This is a beautiful road but I’m getting tired of driving on it,” I said to Magellan, who was the one at the wheel. It was the fourth time we’d driven it in 18 hours. When we booked a B&B in Castle Valley, Utah, we weren’t concerned that it was 35 kilometres from Moab. Highway […]
No, not that White House. But a thousand years ago, the White House we’re talking about today was a political place. “I think we should go even though it is a two-hour drive each way,” I said to Magellan over breakfast at Casa de las Olas. “We’ll be sorry if we don’t.” Leaving the white-sand […]
In the language of New Zealand’s indigenous Māori, the word Moeraki means “drowsy day.” We were ready for a drowsy day, for Moeraki. The previous day we woke up before the sun in Auckland, drove slowly to the airport (because a tire on our rental car had blown out on the freeway and we were […]
“Since the time of the Inquisition, what started off in Spain as “mandatory” pork consumption (under the threat of death) has evolved into a true passion.” This quote comes from a Food Network documentary that Magellan and I highly recommend (for those of you going to Spain, considering Spain or thinking about pork for dinner […]
Just say the word penguin and your mouth forms into a smile. (Try it. See!) We humans love these fearless, flightless birds in tuxedos, waddling around on two feet (like us) looking like they’d like to come over for a chat. Seeing a colony of Magellanic penguins was one of the very best experiences on […]
Local knowledge. It wasn’t listed in the New York Times 36 Hours in Tulum. We hadn’t heard about it from friends who’d been to Tulum. It didn’t screen surface on any of our Google searches, even though it’s been around since 2004. But on our first morning at Casa de las Olas when we were […]
There’s a reason Windhorse Tours, and probably every company arranging travel in Bhutan, puts climbing to the Tiger’s Nest at the end of your stay. Taktshang Pelphung, the sacred temple complex known as the Tiger’s Nest, clings to a sheer rock cliff in thin air at an elevation of 3200 metres—10,500 feet. That’s more than […]
In the dark of the night, dreaming of their faces jolted me awake. Again. Even though it’s been almost two years since we saw them. Recurring dreams, it is said, reflect our concerns and help us process memories and emotions. It’s also said that giving this sort of dream a title and writing about it […]
We heard one day in the car on CBC 2 Ben Hepner say some composers modelled their compositions on Fibonacci’s Series, like Claude Debussey for example, which made me wonder if any famous poets had ever spiraled an idea in Fibonacci’s form, like a nautilus beginning with a single circle and expanding it outward, to […]
Spraying a dab of perfume on myself this morning made me think about camels. “Camels, I like,” said Aubed, our guide in the Empty Quarter of Oman. “I own some with my cousin.” “Why do you like them?” I asked. “Very smart animal. Call their name, they come. Camel milk I like. The meat, too.” […]
When I read Alex Kerr’s book Lost Japan back in 1996, I fell in love with the idea of visiting Chiiori. Never, never ever in my life, did I think I’d be sleeping on a futon in this ancient farmhouse in the remote East Iya Valley.
“I guess this is what we eat for lunch,” said Magellan. “And this is what we drink,” I said as one of the Mayan women, looking like she was dressed for a party in her magenta blouse and shiny black skirt, her hair slicked back to reveal dangly earrings, placed a large plastic pitcher of […]
Say his name aloud. Cristóbal Balenciaga. A name poem, an octosyllable perfectly arranged in harmonious beauty. Like Cristóbal Balenciaga scissoring fabric into timeless elegance. When I discovered that a museum honouring his work had opened in the Basque seaside village of Getaria where he grew up, and that it was on our way to Bilboa […]
Hospital de los Venerables, (home for elderly priests). Not a name that entices you to visit the place is it? Its description in a guidebook hints that there’s more “A little gem of a museum/church/gallery.” And mentions that “To the left is a small room housing paintings from Sevillano painters, including Velázquez.” Including Velázquez! I’d […]
It’s our favourite area in New Zealand, the tip of the South Island with its trio of natural wonders: Wharariki Beach (the best beach we’ve ever found; see our post), the Pillar Point Lighthouse Track (a dramatic cliff walk—a future post) and Farewell Spit (a 25-kilometre sand spit and nature reserve). On February 10, 2017, […]
What was one of my biggest fears in venturing off-road by ourselves through the wadis, beaches and deserts of Oman? Scorpions and camel spiders! I didn’t want to become a part of the food chain in a foreign country.
Magellan and I feel a tradition coming on. Last year we wrote about the best new recipe we’d tried in 2015. Why not do the same for 2016?
When I looked again at the map for the Kogumotori-goe section we walked on our third day of the Kumano Kodo, how to write about our experience became as clear as the mountain streams we’d been crossing. Our route was shown in reverse on the map—we had to follow it from right to left. Journeys […]
Day two on the Kumano Kodo had its ups and downs and proved the name Luck-Sure-Be Travel that Magellan and I gave ourselves in planning this trip. “Longer than yesterday but easier,” is how I described Day Two to Lynn and Ward Longer? True. Easier? False. Very false.
It was my fault that we were drenched when we arrived at the start of the Kumano Kodo. Grey sheets of rain were pounding down in Tanabe early that Monday morning. We’d bought our bus tickets for the 40-minute ride to Takijiri-oji, the trailhead where we were to start the Kumano Kodo, and Magellan, Lynn […]
On this Christmas day, Magellan and I are treating ourselves to the gift of frankincense. It’s burning in the ceramic mukkabbah we bought in Oman, releasing a primal smoke, an aromatic fragrance more powerful than that released by our Christmas tree. Until two Christmases ago, we didn’t know much about frankincense. Gift of a wise […]
“Ritual has an anticipatory relevance—we prepare for it, practically and psychologically; that’s part of its benefit.It’s about making your own raft of time. Your own doorway into Christmas,” writes Jeanette Winterson in her new book Christmas Days. What are your rafts into the doorway of your Christmas? Jeanette’s article (sent by Lynn from The […]
“Have you been to Antarctica?” Sherri asked me at yoga while we were waiting for the class to begin. I’ve always said we’d go to the Antarctic (or on any other cruise) when Magellan’s cane and my wheelchair were in danger of colliding. But, as Sherri said, you can’t wait until you’re old; you’ve […]
When making reservations for our first two nights in Japan, I found something rather odd. We wanted to stay in a temple in the mountain town of Koyasan, but the one I liked best (because it was near Okunoin, Japan’s largest and most famous graveyard) had a curfew. You had to check in by 5pm—any […]
here fall the gingko leaves fluttering yellow fans cartwheeling freely onto a carpet so radiant like old memories loosened by wind’s cool breath (see how fall’s decay convenes past golden moments) outshining daffodils which lack ginkos’ wisdom autumn’s stories Navigation The format of “Gingko Leaves” originated with the lively verse of one of my favourite […]
In preparing for our trip to Oman, we searched the web to filter and highlight the opportunities for our adventure. We had rented a Land Cruiser for two weeks that was tricked out with a rooftop tent, allowing us to freedom camp wherever we wanted, unconstrained by the itinerary of a tour group (which we’d […]
“We’ll spend two nights at Slot Canyons Inn with probably the best host in all of Utah,” said Russ, the owner of Backcountry Journeys and our guide for photography and hiking for six days last April. High praise. If I were a better researcher I’d have noticed the * beside Slot Canyons Inn B&B in […]
It was just past noon when we arrived at EcoCamp in Patagonia, too late for a major day hike. “Relax for a bit, then come to the community dome around one and we’ll have lunch ready for you,” said Victor, the check-in guy in his plaid shirt jacket as he led us down the wooden […]
Wrong Turns Kansai Airport to Mountain-Top Koyasan weary of tunnels, in the Fukuchiin Temple we sleep near the monks
Trying to book a holiday in Japan when you don’t speak the language can be frustrating, or a breeze (like working with Kumano Travel for our pilgrimage hike) or laugh-out-loud funny. Today, we’re focusing on the latter. For our stay in Osaka, I found a little boutique hotel “…a sort of ongoing art project…with interiors […]
It was 11:40 and the line was already snaking around the corner. This was lucky for the four of us: there’s no sign above the door and we may not have otherwise found Casa Anselma, where locals and others crowd for La Rumbla Flamenca in Sevilla. Round midnight the doors opened. Magellan joined the lineup […]
After contending with a blizzard at Milford Sound and pounding rain at Paparoa, Magellan and I felt like snow birds when we arrived at Abel Tasman National Park. Located in the sunniest corner of the country at the top end of the South Island, Abel Tasman NP was so warm Kohanga turned off her heat […]
Do you know about the South Chilcotin area of BC? Until this summer, all we knew was that it was home to gold-rush miners, wild horses and horse-riding dude ranches. And that it was four-wheel-drive country four hours away. “I think it’s the perfect place for Rove-Inn’s first camping experience,” Magellan concluded, after looking at […]
Every time we do a posting about Bhutan, I sense our guide Namgyel thinking to himself, “After all those dzongs, temples, monasteries and chortens I took them to, when are they going to talk about Buddhism?” Namgyel, where do we start? You took us to 27 Buddhist sites. “Was that all?” Magellan asked. You told […]
“I always decide,” I said. “Where would you like to go?” “Back to Spain,” said Magellan. A few weeks later he announced, “I’ve been emailing and talking to the people at El Celler. We’ve got a reservation for 9 pm on your birthday!”
One Saturday morning a few weeks ago we awoke to an email from our granddaughter Clare. She’d been working at a café on Granville Island for the summer and, having received her schedule for the following week, she suggested we go on a mini BC vacation on her two free days. Where to go at […]
Do you, like me, associate a special place with a specific colour? Take Taos, New Mexico. I’ve been there in three different seasons, yet for me, one colour signifies this sun-filled high-desert town—corn yellow. Maybe it’s the crisp brilliance of the thin air at 2100 metres, a spot some call the birthplace of the sun. […]
Summer’s green is turning to autumn’s gold—the new school year is about to begin. As our granddaughter Clare heads back to university at King’s College in Halifax, my thoughts turn back to the autumn Magellan and I visited the third-oldest university in the world (est. in 1218), its library so stunning I (almost) wanted to […]
“Would you like to go and see Bernice?” I asked my mother, who lives alone in the small town of Birch Hills, Saskatchewan, about a half-hour’s drive from the hamville* of Weldon where her friend Bernice lives in a school turned into a home for seniors for those who don’t need nursing care. Like 99-year-old […]
A few weeks ago we told you about trading in our car for an old Land Rover, a 2008 LR2. No dog days of summer here—we’ve been busy scouting a rooftop tent, LED lanterns, a camp stove, rollup tables, nonstick pots and pans… Carving out time for the farmers market on Saturday, we found Walter […]
Beginning by introducing himself and sitting down on a chair on the porch of the Seven Wives Inn in St. George, Utah, Russ surprised us when he announced the destination we’d be going to. Let me take a step back. It’s very unlike us, but we had no travel itinerary for Utah on our […]
Before the clock strikes seven, the sounds of goats bleating, auctioneers shouting and buyers haggling fill the air, as they have on Friday mornings in Nizwa since the sixth century. It’s the Nizwa Goat Market, an auction spectacle made famous when this city, at the crossroads of the country’s trade route, was the capital of […]
This week’s post was supposed to be about The Hollows, our favourite restaurant in Saskatoon where summer is celebrated on the patio with bite-sized dandelion fritters and rhubarb-pink margaritas. But our camera didn’t make it to dinner. Should we write a story on Magellan’s 50th high school reunion instead we wondered on the drive home […]
In today’s post, we’re not travelling far, just to Trout Lake Farmers’ Market and Granville Island here in Vancouver. But we’ll start with lunch. “What’s the best dish you cooked this year?” I asked my friend Teresa over lunch at the Royal Dinette late last December. “Good question,” she said, having another forkful of […]
Vancouver this spring was flowered with rhododendrons. I know, rhododendrons are such show-offs, covering and smothering themselves with flowers like a woman wearing pearls and perfume to a campfire picnic. Not my favourite flower. But they reminded me of our trip last spring to Bhutan, a country renowned for its numerous varieties of rhodos and […]
The Florescence of Peonies A coral bud, hard, petals tightly wound ’round your heart the day we brought you home. Look at you now! Poised, beauty and wisdom in winsome ruffles of apricot. And tomorrow? Pale, colour and scent evanescent in the dusk of your life. Grandma, long passed. Still, peonies bloom, blousy, drowsy, […]
Or more appropriately, “Do I see what you see?” Probably not. And what your camera sees is something else.
No, me neither. Until Magellan saw them on TV in Barcelona we had no idea what castells were. On Saturday morning a few days later, we were in Poboleda, a small town in Priorat, at its annual wine festival that Magellan had read about online when we were planning our trip. “Hey, look at this,” […]
Back in 1999, Bandon Dunes opened with these words: “…we believe that, with time and the opening of two projected sister courses, it will rival Pebble Beach as a pilgrimage destination. As a true links, it has no peer in North America. Standing in magnificent isolation amid the windswept Pacific dunes…Bandon Dunes offers a […]
In Patagonia, we’d arranged a day trip to Perito Moreno. Saying “Perito Merino” made us admire its singsong of syllables. Seeing Perito Moreno made us shiver at the power of its cool beauty.
Wednesday night, April 15 I’m still in a bit of a shock over what happened today. Maybe as I age (remember, I’m only a year old) and get used to life in the wilderness (after all, I was born in Germany), I’ll roll with it more easily.
“Where is that?” “Why are you going there?” “Why would you go to the Middle East now?” This is what Spice and I were asked when we told people we were going to Oman. Our short answer was “For the smell of it.”
When we first saw Joshua Tree National Park and its eponymous Joshua trees, the autumnal landscape had the burnished glow of copper. We, like many people, were entranced by these wildly individualistic trees, their Seussian arms uplifted as if saying, “pay attention to me; I have a story for you.” After finding out more about […]
People say dogs are man’s best friends. Unintentionally, Magellan and I made some new best friends in Bhutan. Everyone we know who’s been to Bhutan talks about the huge number of stray dogs, especially in Thimphu, the country’s capital. “They’re not really a bother during the day,” our friend Marsha told us, “but they bark […]
Utah is like a Michelin-starred restaurant with a wine list hundreds of entries long. Do you prefer red—the colour of its predominant terroir begging to be hiked, biked or climbed? Or perhaps a white—boating, kayaking or rafting through rivers and canyon streams? Or sparkling—catching a waterfall in perfect light? Even after planning for six months, […]
Otherworldly Sun alights her figure of hematite, Apart and above in her regal stance Her gown of ruffles chalky pink; her legs Trapped for sixty million years long to dance The sunset waltz in the silent city Where hoodoos grow glowing in saffron light; Sentinels sculpted by frosts and rainfall Awaiting the star-filled Fairyland night […]
Remember the gracious, old-world manner and deportment of Stevens, the butler in the film The Remains of the Day? The kind of man who would open a door for you and say, “Please,” gesturing with his free hand that you enter ahead of him? Whenever I hear the word “Please” spoken in that context, I […]
Fossicking? “What does that mean?” you’re probably wondering. We discovered the word late one night at Fleurs Place, a restaurant in Moeraki on New Zealand’s South Island.
How can we have been strangers for so long to a pisco sour—now our favourite cocktail? Why didn’t we discover it before we became jubilados, destined to drink mostly wine?
“One cannot understand my painting without knowing Portlligat,” proclaimed Salvador Dalí.
After years of driving, I got my first speeding ticket, sort of, while driving in France. We’ve driven extensively in Europe and we’ve noticed that speeding enforcement in France and Spain has made driving safer, predictable and enjoyable, particularly for a foreigner on vacation.
Seductive. Romantic. Alluring. That’s how Sevilla is described in every guidebook. And it’s true. For a week, this fascinating city kept Magellan and I and our friends Pat and Dallas under her charismatic spell. The Alcázar. The Cathedral. A flamenco concert. Triana’s market, ceramics and nightlife. The Antiqvarivm de Sevilla. We expected to love all […]
Getting dressed up for dinner at a restaurant has never been our Valentine’s Day date. Harried wait staff, set menus and inflated prices were the usual reasons. One of the best Valentine’s Days Magellan and I celebrated was the year we invited two other couples over for a romantic dinner.
Upright. Straight. The walls of our long, narrow, country tunnel north to south whitened by Pacific waves and the Snowy Andes— the wall we share with you, our neighbour. Your chest curves, colours bursting from your graffitied walls, toes, hot from dancing, tango in seas Magellan sailed, your smile endless. Will paint run between you […]
“Why did you like the Fitz Roy hike so much?” I asked Magellan before writing this post. “The young mountains spectacularly framed by the blue sky,” he began. “And the hike has views all the way, you’re never stuck in the trees. Lots of vertical, though. And we had incredible weather.” Incredible weather? Those […]
“How long have you been here?” Magellan asked a couple at the adjacent table at dinner during our second night at a small hotel in Spain. “We arrived mid-afternoon,” said Marc. “How did you get in?” Magellan asked. “We’ve been coming here for years and we’re in the system. Cristina programs our arrival and I […]
For our round-the-world adventure tour, we wanted to “BE PREPARED,” a motto I learned as a Boy Scout years ago. It’s a good idea for all international travellers to have a basic medical kit. First-aid supplies and medications may not always be readily available in other countries, or they may be quite different from those […]
Even as a mother protects with her life Her child, her only child, So with a boundless heart Should one cherish all living beings; Radiating kindness over the entire world” Khuddaka Nikāya, Sutta Nipāta 9 “How would you like to hike to a village in the Tang Valley and […]
“I was wondering if you two would be interested in going on some sort of small getaway—maybe two nights on a gulf island, or Salt Spring? Just something small where we could go to a café/do a little hike/play Scrabble/I could have a West Coast experience before heading East,” read Clare’s email late last August. […]
It’s Saturday morning, April, autumn quietly deepening in the southern latitude. In New Zealand’s high alpine, the wind is swaying the tussock into rolling waves of grass that glint like strands of copper in the sun. This striking image replays itself at least weekly for Magellan and me, reviving the memory of our day on […]
It was our first September morning in Barcelona, a trip we’d been planning for months. Being early-rising jubilados, we were eager to explore the Sagrada Família on our own before our pre-booked tour began. Nothing prepared us for the awe that awaited.
“For how long will you continue to listen to those dark shouters, caution and prudence? Fall in! Fall in!” Mary Oliver It was mid morning but the desert heat was already scorching my energy. Magellan and I were at Bahla Fort, its ochre walls, towers and rooms enclosing what had been, for three centuries, the […]
Fall Wedding By Spice It is bright autumn now. The trees still lightly tinged with gold. I hear your vow. The words are ours. I have found you in the mountains again. Is there another word for “sublime”? I need a love that will keep Jasper sky in my mind. Wedded this October day, […]
What are the main features to consider in choosing luggage for pleasure travel? Our top three criteria would be that it’s lightweight, versatile and offers high security. We’ve chosen the 24” PacSafe® luggage to check, Osprey daypacks as carry-on bags and a PacSafe® purse and camera bag. Here’s how we came to those decisions.
Hikers, yes. But it’s hard to imagine why vandals are attracted to Painted Canyon in the Mecca Hills Wilderness, 65 kilometres from Palm Springs as the crow flies. After the long drive along the Coachella Canal that irrigates rows of citrus, they would have to ignore the sign: “Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles Only Beyond This Point” […]
When will we be too old to travel independently? Who knows? Take our friend George. He had a knee replacement last year, cataract surgery this April and was waiting for open-heart surgery for a valve replacement and a bypass on an artery that was 60% blocked. We didn’t expect to be travelling with him this […]
“Mom, when you die I’m not going through all those file cabinets of travel articles in your garage,” Lynn (an “only”) told me one day years ago when we were sorting through stuff before moving. Fair enough. But consider two articles, “The Grilling Genius of Spain” and “Smoke and Miracles.” Without them, how would […]